Once the capital of Siam, Thon Buri sits opposite Bangkok along the west bank of the Chao Phraya. The area gave its name to the Thon Buri period (1767-1782) under the rule of King Taksin Maharaj, who was succeeded by King Rama I, the first monarch of the Chakri dynasty. King Rama I ushered in the Rattanakosin period, and ordered that the capital be relocated to the east bank of the river (Bangkok).
Waterworld
A lot of canals were dug in Thon Buri as it became the center of trading and shipping following the decline of Ayutthaya. There are several choices when it comes to canals to try out as a visitor to Thon Buri, but we’ll take a look at a route that takes us to see some Buddhist temples in Klong Dan.
Our ‘hop on’ point was the Si Phraya pier near the Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel and River City Shopping Complex. Here you can organize a river cruise on a long-tailed boat, operated by Si Phraya Boat Trip (Tel: +66 [0] 2235 3108) for 1,000 baht (US$31) an hour. Up to 15 people can travel aboard a single boat, so the bigger your group is, the cheaper it gets.
To really explore the canals properly, you should allow at least an hour. For those wishing to make multiple stops, such a trip can also be arranged to suit the group.
The boat heads south from downtown Bangkok to Somdet Phrachao Taksin Bridge, a memorial for the king who founded Thon Buri. Visitors and residents know it well since it has a BTS skytrain stop named after it (Saphan Taksin), which connects them to river transportation. Around this part of the river seems more natural than the north and quieter, too, which is great for just cruising along by boat.
About 10 minutes into our trip, we turn right into Klong Dao Khanong on the Thon Buri side of the river. The wooden houses are familiar and similar to those found alongside other canals, but the salt factories are quite unique. You can still see the metal tracks used for transporting salt up from the ferries to the local production plant.
A regal fisherman
After about half an hour’s cruising, we come to the first temple - Wat Sai, a Mahayana Buddhist temple built during the Ayutthaya era (1350-1767).
Close by is a traditional raised wooden building on stilts, which was once supposed to have housed a camp headed by King Sri Sanpetch VIII (1703-1708), a monarch who ruled during the Ayutthaya era. The monarch was apparently fond of fishing at Wat Sai.
The building underwent major renovations during the reigns of King Rama IV and King Rama V. It certainly compliments other nearby architecture.
 A taste of China
Once the Royal temple of King Rama III (1824-1851), who was also known as King Nagklao, Wat Ratchaorasaram clearly demonstrates the monarch’s taste for Chinese-style architecture.
The chedi (stupa) and ubosot (ordination hall) here were built in accordance with traditional Thai temple designs. On the temple exterior, however, you’ll see Chinese-style ceramic roof tiles, patterns, and depictions. The doors at the entrance are decorated with statues of animals and smaller chedis.
The Chinese influence is also quite apparent at Wat Nagnong. The temple’s murals relate to the characters found in the Chinese historical novel Romance of the Three Kingdoms.
It’s worth noting that Royal crown accompanying the Buddha image is a replacement. The original was moved and is now located on the prang (a kind of spire) of Wat Arun.
This Chinese influence can also be seen among other temples in the neighborhood in general, which underwent renovation during the reign of King Rama III.
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Wat Nangchee Shotikaram is unique in that there is an annual religious ceremony held there on the second day of the twelfth waning moon known as Chak Phra (pulling the Buddha). Buddha relic is paraded by boat along the canal and into the Chao Phraya before returning to the temple. While the temple is certainly interesting from this point of view, unfortunately it is not open to visitors.
Now you’ll see Wat Paknam, a temple built during the Ayutthaya period alongside Klong Bang Luang. It’s renowned for its ancient hall, housing Buddhist scriptures, as well as the fine wood craftsmanship on its pediments, doors, and windows, which are also in great condition. The temple hosts plenty of daily merit-making activities.
Family connections
As you head away from Klong Dan and Klong Bang Luang into the Chao Phraya you’ll see some more interesting temples before you reach the pier and the end of your trip.
One particularly nice spot is in front of the pier at Wat Rajkrueh. Lots of fish tend to swim around here and it offers some nice shade where you can cool off for a bit.
Wat Kalayanamitr, also built during the reign of King Rama III, is probably the most significant. Established in 1825 by Chaophraya Nikornbadin, it was donated to King Rama III. It features a Chinese-style and Thai-style chedi side-by-side.
As you approach the end of your journey, you might feel a little overwhelmed, but then again the trip offers a very practical option for someone with a limited timeframe in the capital, while giving all visitors an interesting insight into life on the “other side” of the river.
Transport connections:
Boat: Boats operate along this route by connecting Sathorn Pier with the Saphan Taksin BTS skytrain station. Si Phraya pier is the third pier along from Sathorn Pier heading northwards or up river.
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