Maneeya Dhammataree

Samut Songkhram province's Amphawa district is a popular destination among both domestic and international visitors – the main attractions being its famous fireflies and floating market.

While there are homestay accommodation options located along the eastern bank of the Mae Klong River, I chose to visit the rather poetic-sounding Ruen Roy Nam Baan Kammathep ('Water-stained House of Cupid'), which is located in a truly serene rural setting on the opposite side of the river. In general, the resorts on this side of the river tend to be more carefully tailored towards the natural environment, while the hosts are genuine locals.

Ruen Roy Nam Baan Kammathep maintains the original sense of a traditional riverside residence. The owner of the property, Bunsom Theeralertrat, better known as Paa ('Auntie') Bunsom, says that the name of her home derives from its age (it's been there for more than 80 years), while the floral reference refers to her youngest son and the fact that the owners are dedicated to offering guests a warm and friendly stay.

Ruan Roy Nam Baan Kammathep boasts a riverside setting, but it's also surrounded by orchards. Bunsom's grandparents, who made their living through the cultivation of coconut palms, built the house and their memories live on since the main building is called Ruen Khun Yai ('Grandma's house'). The house was constructed in a traditional raised Thai style known as Pan Ya. Although it is raised by the use of stilts, the stilts are somewhat shorter than those found in other parts of the country, while the gable roof is flatter.

Ruen Khun Yai consists of several rooms located on a single floor. A typical Thai-style balcony facing the river offers a great spot to relax in, not to mention numerous other shaded areas within the property's grounds.

A two-storey wooden building located behind the main house was where the family used to produce palm sugar. Built over 40 years ago, it features high ceilings, which promote a good flow of fresh air. This is just as well since the homestay's reception area and canteen are located on the ground floor of this building.

The second floor was used to store materials and sugar, but these days it serves as another guest room. Although this room is not located alongside the river, its height gives it a pleasant, panoramic view of the Mae Klong River and the local community.

The only modern building on site is known as the 'Water Hut' since it is located right above the river. This is a great place to stay for two to four people who are seeking lots of privacy. A bridge made from bamboo, help together by rope provides access to the hut through an area featuring mangrove and mudflats. Created from the body of a traditional Thai barge, the front of the building features a small balcony.

A romantic setting

Bunsom's homestay operation boasts several special, individual touches that really help guests to feel relaxed during their stay. An old boat tied up alongside the deck provides a great spot from which to check out the scenery. A wooden swing made from the wheels off an old cart might appeal to children or the young at heart, while there is also a nice comfy sofa set in the shade at the back of the main building. Even the pathway leading up to the main house features long wooden benches alongside it.

The atmosphere is also amazing, providing a truly romantic setting. During my stay, there was a pleasant warm breeze during the day, while it was quite cool at night. As the river's tide rises during the evening, you might feel like paddling or even taking a swim. Since the area is well known for its fireflies, you may even be lucky enough to spot some during your stay. However, if you want to improve your chances of spotting some, take a trip by boat up to Amphawa floating market.

Bunsom is dedicated to ensuring that Ruen Roy Nam Baan Kammathep is ecologically-friendly, while maintaining a sense of 'Thainess'. This is also reflected in the food created in its kitchens. Deep-fried dishes are served up on a banana leaf, not only to improve the aroma, but also because banana leaves can soak up a lot of the oil contained in a fried dish, meaning that the crockery is easier to clean, requiring less washing-up liquid. Banana leaves are also fully biodegradable.

For a true taste of Thai life, it's possible to offer food to local Buddhist monks, who row themselves over to the property early in the morning. Bunsom is even careful to prepare the food in an eco-friendly way, serving it up in traditional silver-colored bowls rather than plastic bags. Her special attention to detail, such as cooking rice with pine leaves, gives guests a real feel for traditional Thai ways. Indeed, Bunsom is careful to feature local delicacies on her menu, such as a range of colorful juices prepared from local flowers. Chef can also knock up a wonderful Pla-too (mackerel) dish with a soup featuring sour fruit, such as lime, garcinia, or tamarind. This is a typical local dish since Pla-too is one of the most commonly caught fish in this area.

Overall, Bunsom's mission is to demonstrate to her guests the traditional way of life for riverside residents, while also showing how friendly people living in the community of Amphawa can truly be.

For further information or to make a reservation at Ruen Roy Nam Baan Kammathep, call Tel: +66 (0)8 5064 1635.

Transport connections:

Car: The quickest way of reaching Samut Songkhram province from Bangkok by car is to head for Rama II Road (Pak Tor Road), which will lead you on to Highway 35. Follow the signs until you reach Samut Songkhram municipality. For more detailed travel information on how to reach the resort, call the resort operator.