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While there are quite a few companies operating a range of cycling tours around the capital and beyond these days, I had, until recently, yet to come across an outlet conducting trips in the city at night on two wheels.
Fortunately, almost by sheer chance, I stumbled upon Grasshopper Adventures, which offers a nighttime ride with a guide starting from the company’s efficiently run base in Soi Ram Butri, just off Khao San Road.
After a few inquiries, I was on my way to meet my two-wheeled tour guide for the evening - Natbenyarat ‘Nok’ Noysuwan. First impressions last
Although Grasshopper Adventures’ base is fairly modest, you can tell by the cleanliness and high level of organization that the business is effectively managed. All the bicycles are neatly presented, clean, and by the look of it, fairly robust. I was to learn fairly early on in my trip that the bikes were also considerably light given their comparative size. The company imports the bikes from Germany, according to Nok, and, based not only on stereotype but also upon my personal experience, they certainly proved to be both efficient and reliable.
Nok suggested not changing gears during the trip and this seemed to prove to be a wise choice. Most of the terrain along the 10-15 kilometer route can be more easily negotiated by remaining in a low gear anyway.
Safety first
Without wishing to appear rude, I think it's safe to say that the kingdom isn't particularly renowned for its attention to road safety. I immediately warmed to Nok's level of professionalism, however, as she gave me a quick 'heads up' before setting off, ensuring my helmet was a snug fit, while demonstrating how to operate the bike's lights.
Nok pointed out that I should remain behind her and follow her hand signals throughout the trip, unless otherwise instructed. She then pointed out the main attractions we were to encounter during our nighttime adventure, which would include Wat Arun (the Temple of Dawn), Pak Khlong Talad (the flower market), and Wat Pho (the Temple of the Reclining Buddha).
After receiving some further insights into the bike's operation, we got underway. Quiet back streets
I was immediately impressed by the way this tour had been planned. We took small lanes and pathways wherever possible, so the trip only involved three or four short spells on busier, more hazardous roads. Before long we were approaching Thammasat University to catch a boat across the river to our first major destination.
This particular trip takes about three to four hours to complete and costs 1,000 baht (about US$28) per person, which includes any related costs such as water, the ferry ticket and so on.
Nok told me that the trip covers about 15 kilometers, although I personally thought it seemed closer to 10 km. Either way, it's not particularly demanding in terms of physical exertion, so even less than fit riders should manage it without too much trouble.
Once on the other side of the river we made our way along quiet riverside pathways and lanes to the temple of Wat Arun.
Interesting facts
Throughout this trip I was extremely impressed by Nok's knowledge of
Thai history, particularly relating to historic aspects relating to
religion and the Royal family.
Before taking some nighttime snaps of Wat Arun, Nok first pointed out
some interesting facts about some Chinese-style features within the
temple compound. Two Chinese-style lions 'guarding' one area, for
example, are male and female, respectively. I personally had absolutely
no idea how to tell the difference, but Nok pointed out that the female
lion has a cub in her hand, while the male is carrying a ball.
Elsewhere, she noted the use of a flower said to be King Rama III's
favorite. Apparently, should you spot a flower of this variety, it
symbolizes this monarch's involvement in a temple's restoration. The
ceramic flower I refer to can be seen in the gallery accompanying this
story.
If you are particularly interested in this magnificent temple's
history, I really recommend you take a tour at night with Nok, a guide
perhaps best described as a 'fountain of knowledge' when it comes to
Thai Royal and religious history.
Before heading alongside the river on a pathway towards Memorial
Bridge, where we would cross back over to Bangkok from Thon Buri, there
was the opportunity to take some photos of the beautiful Santa Cruz
Church, which was established by Bangkok's early Portuguese community
in 1786.
Fantastic flora
Pak Klong Talad is Bangkok's central flower and vegetable market, which
opens during the early hours of the morning. And while a daytime visit
in itself is interesting, at night the market is really buzzing with
activity as wholesalers make their deliveries and workers prepare for
the busy early morning rush.
If you are starting to feel rather hungry at this point, you might wish
to stop for a bite here – Nok can recommend a particularly good
restaurant serving Lard Na (noodles in a thick gravy).
After finishing my meal we headed through the market's delivery area,
which was alive with activity as workers unloaded goods and prepared
them for sale early the next morning. Our next destination - and final
port of call - was to be Wat Pho (the Temple of the Reclining Buddha).
Although we weren't able to enter the building housing the Reclining
Buddha, it was in some ways more interesting to see workers cleaning
this giant image. Nok dutifully paid her respects as a committed
Buddhist before we began a tour of the temple compound.
What I found particularly fascinating was to see workers from the
Department of Fine Arts carrying out painstaking restoration work on
some intricate teak wood details. Although you may see such work being
carried out during the day, at nighttime the process is more 'open',
the workers having time to explain some of the work being undertaken.
Finally, before bringing our adventure to a close, we were able to have
a long discussion with a monk who has been at the temple now for 21
years. Although the conversation probably lasted for almost half an
hour, it would have been easy to stay for longer. However, even
nighttime cyclists must eventually go to bed and so at this point I
said farewell to my helpful host after a very interesting and enjoyable
four-hour trip.
For further information about Grasshopper Adventures' cycling tours, contact Tel: +66 (0)87 929 5208, or visit the company's website at http://www.grasshopperadventures.com .
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