Youthapong Charoenpan
An enchanting scent of spices told me I was heading towards Pahurat – Bangkok's very own 'Little India', which is located west of Yaowarat (Chinatown).
While the majority of the Indian community working in Pahurat are Sikh textile merchants, who speak fluent Thai, it's also possible to hear numerous Indian dialects being spoken here. It's a bustling area filled with the colorful sights and sounds associated with Indian communities worldwide.
Pahurat Road was built in 1898 and was named after Somdet Chaofah Pahurat Maneemai, a son of the great monarch King Rama V. Many Indians moved to the area shortly after the road was completed and a significant community soon started taking shape. These days, the area known as Little India is said to cover Chakraphet Road, Pahurat Road, and Triphet Road.
Indian traders in textiles originally set up shop in Chinatown's Sampheng district, and over the years built up a solid reputation for quality. While Pahurat's traditional street stalls and stores remain as popular as ever among shoppers, the recent addition of a new four-story shopping mall – India Emporium – adds an interesting, indoor alternative.
Impressive threads
Located right next door to Pahurat's Sikh temple – Sri Guru Singh Sabha – India Emporium differs from regular malls in the sense that the focus has a distinctly South Asian flavor. It boasts an impressive range of textiles and fabrics with some particularly fine examples of cotton and silk. Unlike more mainstream malls with just a few dozen stores, at Indian Emporium you'll find up to 300 outlets.
There are plenty of other interesting goods for sale, too, and you're bound to spot a bargain or two. For example, I spotted a woman's embroidered clutch bag for just 250 baht (US$8) during my visit.
You'll also see statues and pictures of Hindu deities for sale, along with CDs, VCDs, and DVDs, as well as bracelets, sandals, and other miscellaneous trinkets. Indian Emporium also differs from many other malls in that bartering is still considered to be a norm.
During
my visit, I heard one velvet-tongued trader wooing local ladies by
addressing them as Khunying, which, strictly-speaking, is an official
Royal title that could be interpreted as being equivalent to the
English title 'Lady'. Elsewhere, a young woman with her mother prepared
for her 'big day' by browsing for wedding gowns. In this sense, a visit
to India Emporium can be a cultural experience as much as a shopping
experience since it provided me with some fresh insight into the city's
Indian community.
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As a
newcomer to the area, I found it interesting to see members of the
community dressed in their traditional finery. While Indian culture
predominates, the community is inclusive rather than exclusive. A group
of Thai men were busy playing board games, while a group of local women
gathered close to a spirit house for a chat.
Beyond
the bustling markets, I found the Pahurat neighborhood to be remarkably
quiet, quite a rarity in itself in downtown Bangkok. A visit to Pahurat
lets visitors compare and contrast traditional aspects of Bangkok with
the bolder, brasher, more modern elements of life in the city. A visit
to Pahurat also demonstrates the Indian community's ability to
successfully assimilate while maintain its own rich and valuable
culture and heritage.
Transport connections:
Train:
One of the quickest ways of getting to Pahurat is to take an MRT subway
train to Hua Lamphong station (the last stop heading southbound). A
taxi will connect you with Pahurat for around 50 baht (US$1.44) -
braver souls might want to consider taking a motorcycle taxi given that
the traffic in this part of the city can be quite heavy.
Bus:
Heading into the city along Sukhumvit Road (via Siam Square), it's
possible to hop aboard air-conditioned bus numbers 7, 53, 56 or 507.
Non air-conditioned buses 25 or 40 also pass through Paruhat.
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Lifestyle
Whether it's traversing the relatively cosmopolitan “urban free-for-all” that is Bangkok, with its trendy malls, urban wellness centers and posh fitness centers, or perhaps traversing the wild trails outside city limits, explore activities to suit your lifestyle.
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