LifestyleWhether it's traversing the relatively cosmopolitan “urban free-for-all” that is Bangkok, with its trendy malls, urban wellness centers and posh fitness centers, or perhaps traversing the wild trails outside city limits, explore activities to suit your lifestyle.
On the way to the beach at Bang Saen last month, I discovered the 133-year-old Ang Sila market, a historic destination in Chon Buri province that has only recently been reintroduced and promoted among the general public. Solid foundations
Once known as Ang Hin (‘the stone bowl’) due to the existence of some 'bowl-like' stone structures that are ideal for the collection of rain water, Ang Sila is a historic community that became very popular as a beachside getaway among Bangkok residents and foreign dignitaries during the reign of King Rama III (1824-1851). Ang Sila has a similar meaning as Ang Hin, but came into use based on it being perceived as a more polite and modern form.
In 1876, during the reign of King Chulalongkorn the Great (King Rama V [1863-1910]), the great monarch reported that when rainfall levels were good, locals could use water year round from the stone bowls from which the community got its name. During years when rainfall levels were lower, however, residents were only able to use water from them for about five to six months of the year. In light of this development, the monarch called for the construction of a system in which local water storage methods could be enhanced.
The Ang Sila community began as a group of just three fishing villages, with two more emerging later on. The villages making up the community are: Ban Boon; Ban Chek; Ban Klang; Ban Pak Klong Rong Nak; and; Ban Thai. A peaceful alternative to Amphawa
Ang Sila market resembles quite closely the famous market at Amphawa in Samut Songkhram province since it also has a large number of wooden, two-story shophouses alongside with a long lane packed with food stalls and souvenir shops. While the market at Ang Sila was only launched on May 1, it's not as well known as Amphawa and is therefore a good deal quieter, allowing for a particularly relaxing shopping experience.
The Ang Sila community is particularly well known for its krok (stone pestle and mortar sets) since the area nearby is a good source of high-quality white and yellow granite. You can find these sets in numerous shapes and sizes, starting from as little as 300 baht (US$9). These stores also offer various styles of granite-based statues that are typically bought for landscaping projects or as garden ornaments.
Since many visitors to the market are also likely to pay a visit to the beach at Bang Saen, it's worth pointing out that many of the food stalls at the market offer a variety of dishes featuring fresh seafood, along with Thai desserts at reasonable prices. If something grabs your attention, I recommend you buy it since you may find that it's not available at the beach, which is located just a few kilometers away from the market.
One dessert that particularly caught my attention was Salapao Tod Nam, a popular form of dumpling that on this occasion is cooked in hot water rather than oil. These dumplings are filled with a variety of ingredients, including green beans, taro and minced pork.
Ideal takeaway fare
Whether you plan to head for the beach after your visit, or plan to
head back to the capital or elsewhere, there are several other kinds of
dessert options that are ideal as a takeaway.
One store sells Khao Larm ('sticky rice
with coconut milk and black beans'), which is cooked in a length of
bamboo, while Khanom Chak ('coconut wrapped in palm leaf') is another
style of dessert that has become synonymous with Chon Buri province. It
should be noted that these two desserts are equally as delicious as
those sold at Nong Mon market, the province's largest market, where
many domestic tourists tend to visit before heading home or onto their
next destination.
Many food stalls here use bags
featuring the logo of the 133-year-old market, while one stall also
sells fold-up fans bearing the same mark. The demonstrates just how
much effort the community has invested in reestablishing and promoting
the market.
As I strolled around the market, an announcer introduced visitors to
the various shops and stalls in the market, while discouraging
youngsters from riding their bikes or motorcycles within the market in
order to maximize safety for visitors. While I was impressed by the
market, I think it will still take a few years and some further
commitments towards improvement before it reaches the popularity of
many of its long-established rivals elsewhere.
Lots to do
There are quite a large number of attractions located within easy reach
of the market should you wish to get a better taste of the area's
history.
Once known as Saphan Hin ('Stone Bridge'), Saphan Pla Ang Sila was
built on the order of King Rama IV. While Saphan Pla actually means
'Fish Bridge', more accurately it describes the bridge, pier and fish
market. The monarch ordered its construction to bring people closer to
the sea. Here you can buy fresh and preserved seafood at reasonable
prices (it's perfectly acceptable to try and negotiate a better price
with the vendor). If you have a food storage container with you, you
may wish to use it to help maintain the seafood's freshness. Otherwise,
it is generally possible to find one for sale at the market.
A taste of history
Just across the road from Ang Sila market are two temples called Wat
Nok and Wat Nai, which were merged and given the name Wat Ang Sila. The
main ordination hall was built around 1700, and its interior is adorned
with colorful mural paintings created during the reign of King Rama III
(1824-1851).
Tuk Maha Raj and Tuk Rajini, two European-style Royal residences built
during the reign of King Rama IV (1851-1868), are also located close by
the market. The wooden homes were built as resting places for high
ranking officials and were registered as important historic sites by
the Fine Arts Department in 1996.
On the way to the beach at Bang Saen, a Chinese-style temple called Wat
Najasaataichue (often shortened to Wat Naja), stands proudly, facing
the ocean. Built in 1991 on a small plot measuring 200 square wah (800
sq m), the temple received a huge influx of donations in 1995 from the
public and so was subsequently expanded. The temple complex features
three main buildings and one Hor Fah Din ('alter of heaven').
For further information about the market, contact the committee
responsible for overseeing the organization of the market, which can be
contacted at Tel: +66 (0)38 398 497, or visit the website of Ang Sila
Municipality at http://www.angsilacity.go.th . Transport connections: Car:
From Bangkok, take Highway 34 (Bang Na-Trad) to Chon Buri province.
Switch to Highway 3 (Sukhumvit Road) and then bear left when you see a
sign for road number 3134 (Samed-Ang Sila-Khao Sammuk). You will arrive
at the Ang Sila community just before reach the seaside.
Lifestyle
Whether it's traversing the relatively cosmopolitan “urban free-for-all” that is Bangkok, with its trendy malls, urban wellness centers and posh fitness centers, or perhaps traversing the wild trails outside city limits, explore activities to suit your lifestyle.
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