Life in ThailandThai ways of living - be it countryside or city - have their own distinct styles, rhythms and habits. The kingdom, and especially Bangkok, is also home to an interesting variety of locals and expatriates. Learn about the views and lives of local and expatriate communities, in addition to helpful tips for those exploring and living a Life in Thailand.
Located 74 kilometers southwest of Bangkok on a three by five km sandbar at the mouth of the Mae Klong River, Don Hoi Lod ('Land of the Razor Shells') is one of Samut Songkhram province's major natural attractions.
Due to constant ebb and flow of the tide and the fact that there is plenty of sai khi pet (a nutritious form of sandy soil) located here, the location has proven to be ideal for the development of a form of bivalve mollusk better known as a razor shell (Ensis arcuatus), which has pretty much become synonymous with the area.
An early start
The best time of year to engage in this activity is during the months of April and May, which fall during the hot season (March-June). The best time of day to participate in the razor shell catch is from early morning through midday. Clearly, early morning may prove to be somewhat cooler.
I set off from home completely unprepared for this activity, but it doesn't matter in this case since it's easy to purchase a little fishing set for just 30 baht (US$0.87) from entrepreneurial locals. This set includes a little wooden stick, a small pack of lime powder, along with a small bucket. A boat delivered us to a spot from where we had to continue our journey on foot. It makes most sense to go barefoot at this point since it can get pretty muddy. Although it was only about 10 am at this time, the heat was almost unbearable and I wished I'd put on a long-sleeved t-shirt rather than a skimpy one.
Raising the stakes
The tide was almost perfect and while other groups of visitors began arriving, I decided to eavesdrop on their conversations. A member of one group challenged a friend, and they finally agreed that each shell dug up would be valued at 10 baht. While I suppose it does constitute a form of gambling, albeit among friends, such activities can certainly serve to generate a strong sense of competition.
Also known as the razor clam, or razor fish, this particular form of bivalve is typically found on sandy beaches. Its name comes from the fact that it's similar in shape to a straight razor, but it's also very fragile and smooth. While the inner surface is white with a hint of purple, the base is creamy white with brown lines.
Since the razor shell basically lives and feeds underground by using a powerful 'foot' to dig deep into the sand, they rarely appear above ground, preferring to live and feed below the surface.
Handle with care
When
it comes to stocking up on these shells, lime powder or brine is used
to entice the creatures from their homes. The lime powder can
effectively suffocate the shells, and this then forces them upwards
towards the surface. Please be very careful when using the lime,
however, since it should be noted that it can be ecologically harmful
to other marine creatures.
As a first-timer, I was told to use
just a pinch of lime and drop it into a keyhole-shaped hole in the
sand. Earlier, while on board a boat heading for the area, a local
urged me to look for little bubbles, which would suggest the presence
of a shell or group of shells.
Ultimately, I have to admit
that this popular activity is certainly pretty tricky. There's the
strong heat of the sun to contend with, while it helps to build up some
experience since that will help you locate an active hole.
Nevertheless, it was most certainly great fun. Indeed, it was such fun
that I was a little surprised not to see more families around. Not only
is it great fun, it could surely also provide a great learning
opportunity for children when it comes to nature.
After many
attempts, I can report that I was able to catch 10 razor shells, all of
which I decided to set free again. For me, this was just a fun activity
and so there was no need to keep hold of my catch. When it comes to
getting your hands on a culinary sample, you can always order up a
plate of the shells from a local restaurant.
If you wish to
stay a bit longer, it's possible for tourists to hire a boat (at 20
baht for a round trip) to Aporn Pavilion, which is located close to the
Krommaluang Chumponkhet Udomsak Shrine. Otherwise, you can just find
yourself a nice seafood restaurant to dine in, or do some shopping or
browsing among the the stalls and stores nearby selling local products.
Transport connections: Car:
Take Highway 35 (Rama II Road [Thon Buri-Pak Tho]) to Samut Sakhon and
then continue along the same route to Samut Songkhram There is a market
called Bang Kaew Central Market at km 57, or just continue until you
reach km 61. At km 61 make a U-turn and then take the next left-hand
turn. Follow the signs for the market, which you'll reach after driving
another 5 km.
Life in Thailand 
Life in Thailand
Thai ways of living - be it countryside or city - have their own distinct styles, rhythms and habits. The kingdom, and especially Bangkok, is also home to an interesting variety of locals and expatriates. Learn about the views and lives of local and expatriate communities, in addition to helpful tips for those exploring and living a Life in Thailand.
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