Northern parts of Bangkok have boasted flourishing orchards and rice fields for centuries until, over recent decades, the country transformed itself from an agricultural-based society into an industrial one.
In Taling Chan district, about 30 kilometers from downtown Bangkok, modern trends and developments have led many orchard owners to cash in, selling their land to industrial or residential property developers. But a group of growers who have orchards on land alongside Klong (canal) Ladmayom hopes to retain its traditions.
Three years ago, the group established what it calls the ‘Self-effacing Garden’, located on a five-rai (0.8-hectare) site. While the owner continues to farm the area in order to make a living, it’s now also open to the general public, who can stroll around the site, do some reading at an open-air pavilion, or just take in the atmosphere.
 Fifty-five-year-old Chuan Choojan, the leader of the project, said the main objective is to preserve the orchards.
“Members of the community have been lending a hand, and we’re trying as hard as we can to preserve the orchards,” he said. “Many of us have grown to love our livelihoods in the orchards and we want other people to learn more about it.”
The group has really begun promoting the project over the past three years as Bangkok Metropolitan Authority (BMA), Silpakorn University, and the community itself joined forces to demonstrate how it is a positive example of a sustainable tourist destination.
As well as establishing the Self-effacing Garden, the project maintains a nearby lotus pond - which is home to rare local species of fish - manages a weekend floating market and organizes boat trips to show visitors around the neighborhood.
The group aims to improve ties among members of the community through the project’s various activities, as well as demonstrating the local people’s pride in their ancestors’ way of life.
“The local people are creating what you might call a ‘living museum’. The project shows how people live in this community. Visitors can interact with locals through trade, while they can learn about life in the locality by visiting the orchards and canals,” according to Srisakara Vallibhotama, a consultant for the project. Srisakara is a well-known anthropologist who previously worked at Silpakorn University.
 Srisakara says settlements around the lower part of the Chao Phraya River, which covers Bangkok, part of Suphan Buri province, as well as the provinces of Nonthaburi, Samut Prakan, and Samut Sakhon, can be traced back to the Ayutthaya period (1351-1767).
He said some people who had migrated to the area had brought with them new kinds of plants or planting techniques. For example, Chinese migrants are credited with introducing ditches between rows of plants in the orchards in order to better control water levels. This method had then been adopted throughout the area below the Chao Phraya River.
Until fairly recently, the area had been a fertile area producing high-quality fruits. Durians, a fruit with a unique, strong aroma, which is popular both locally and overseas, was grown in Nonthaburi province, while Bangkok’s Bang Mod district was well known for its tasty oranges.
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Sadly, these fruits have become less common due to a mix of soil degradation, flooding, and changing lifestyles. Durians, kanoon (jackfruit), mamuang (mangoes), katon (santols), and chom pu (rose apples) are still widely available when ‘in season’, but there is less fruit grown than in the past.
Klong Ladmayom is known for a particular species of mango called Brahman Khai Mia (Brahman Sells His Wife). It earned its name from a legend that suggests that the mangoes taste so good, a Brahman priest sold his wife in order to be able to buy some more. This particular kind of mango is usually available from early April through May.
Project leader Chuan said that due to a changing environment, many growers had chosen to cultivate smaller plants that reach maturity more quickly so that they can enjoy financial returns sooner. Instead of fruit trees, bergamot, galingale, ginger, and lemongrass are popular crop choices, earning the orchards the nickname Suan Tom Yum (the Tom Yum Garden). Tom Yum is a sour and spicy soup and is among Thailand's best known spicy dishes.
The Self-effacing Garden has references to both modern and traditional gardening characteristics. Fruit is still grown in some sections, while others feature herbs, which grow as bushes or smaller plants.
Another modern development relates to the community itself. Many of the aims and aspirations among growers’ children are quite different from their parents. Most have little interest in gardening and aim to work in an office in the city.
“As far as I know, they get little help from their children in rehabilitating the orchards. However, many owners insist that they won’t part with their land,” Chuan said.
Chuan and other members of the community hope that the relevant authorities will implement zoning regulations to preserve the area for agricultural purposes so growers can maintain their orchards and continue with their livelihoods.
“There’s no real reason to change this part of Bangkok into a residential, commercial, or industrial area like other parts of the city. A city should preserve some space so traditional ways of life can be maintained to highlight the area’s history and diversity,” Chuan said. |
Life in Thailand 
Life in Thailand
Thai ways of living - be it countryside or city - have their own distinct styles, rhythms and habits. The kingdom, and especially Bangkok, is also home to an interesting variety of locals and expatriates. Learn about the views and lives of local and expatriate communities, in addition to helpful tips for those exploring and living a Life in Thailand.
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