During incessant bombardment by US bombers during the so-called “Secret War” of 1964-1973, a huge network of 486 caves around the town of Viengxay in Laos’ Houapanh province provided vital cover, saving the lives of thousands of civilians.

The Pathet Lao (Lao Communist Party) movement, which included families and refugees from across the country, set up this remarkable “Hidden City” within the limestone Annamite Mountain Range in 1964. It is estimated that up to 23,000 people benefited from taking refuge in the caves.

To gain a greater insight into this fascinating period of history, the Lao government has now officially opened seven of the caves to tourism. These caves once housed the leading members of the politburo, and they have been left in their original state so visitors can enjoy a more realistic experience. However, there are signs of deterioration in some parts of the cave, and so maintenance work is required in order to be able to accommodate tourists safely.

An ‘underground apartment’

The former home of Kaysone Phomvihanh, late chairman of the Lao Politburo’s Central Committee, who later went on to hold the position of prime minister and then president of Laos until his death in 1992, remains in good shape to this day. He lived in the cave with his family for the duration of the war, accompanied by his personal physician and five bodyguards.

The smooth walls of the cave are whitewashed, and the area is sub-divided into smaller rooms and compartments to necessitate day-to-day living. Most of the rooms are linked to the main corridor, which runs throughout the cave. The cave residence includes a simple bathroom and restroom.

Somkhit Bouaviengxai, 47, an information officer and guide for Viengxay Caves’ Visitors’ Center, said it must have taken several months to prepare the area for habitation.

“We estimate that it must have taken about five months to prepare and strengthen the area for habitation, but we’re still not certain how much explosive was used.”

A long, wooden table and seven chairs still sit in the meeting room, where the leading members of the politburo developed their strategies and policies. On the wall is a map of the country, still showing areas under US control. On a smaller table nearby, a Chinese-made thermos flask, two teapots and some plastic teacups once provided the leaders with some much-needed refreshment.

Several political books, focusing largely on socialist principles, are displayed along with some gifts from the country’s allies during the conflict. Somkhit outlined their origins.

“The bust of Lenin was presented by Russia in 1967, while the lacquered vase was a gift from Vietnam in 1972. The black-and-white photograph was taken during a visit by a Cuban delegation to Vientiane in 1969.”

Sanctuary of sorrow

A smaller cave, once occupied by Prince Souphannouvong, another future president of Laos (1975-1991), is also worth a visit. It can be quite a moving experience since visitors get a sense of the tragedy experienced by the prince, whose beloved son, Prince Ariya Thammasin Souphanouvong, was assassinated by a group who opposed the Pathet Lao.

A memorial is located near to the cave amid peaceful surroundings and verdant trees and shrubs. The memorial includes a plain, black-and-white photograph of the prince, who was just 28 years old when he was gunned down.

“He had only been married for three months and his wife was two months pregnant at the time he was killed,” Somkhit said.

Scars remain

Perhaps the most significant cave among those open to the public is the one once inhabited by Khamtay Siphandone, who was defense minister and head of the military. This was used as the headquarters of the army and was linked up with a number of other important caves.

From a military perspective, this was the heart of the Pathet Lao’s operational activities, which eventually managed to defeat the much more sophisticated, US-backed opposition. This also meant that the cave was the main target during air bombardments, and that can clearly be evidenced by at least 10 huge bomb craters at ground level.

Linked to the military’s underground compound is a huge, 300-meter deep natural cave called Xanglot. Xanglot means “elephant pass” and like the giant beast it is huge, covering an area that could accommodate 2,000 people. Xanglot Cave was ideal for holding rallies, mass meetings, or acting as a barracks. It was also a place where troops could let off steam when used as a venue for dances or musical performances and shows.

There is a large semi-circular stage at one side of the cave where big bands or orchestras would perform. Ballroom dances and traditional Chinese dances were popular forms of entertainment during the war.

Each cave used as a residential area included an emergency room and a Russian-built oxygen pump. This had to be operated manually and served to ensure gases from incendiary bombs were pumped out of the caves during attacks.

Fields of fire

In an incredible, sustained bombardment, over two million tons of ordnance was dropped on Laos during 1964-1973 - more bombs than were dropped on Europe during the whole of World War II. This added up to the equivalent of ten tons of ordnance per km, or one plane load of bombs every eight minutes, 24 hours a day for nine years.

The town of Viengxay and the villages in the area surrounding the caves suffered enormous damage during the attacks. Thousands of people constantly faced shortages of food and other supplies. While some supplies were smuggled by boats or trucks on a monthly basis from Laos’ allies: China; Cuba; Russia; and Vietnam, it was never enough to meet the needs of those people struggling to survive the constant barrages. The attacks meant from a practical point of view that farming anything locally was incredibly difficult. Some farmers ventured out at night in a bid to grow rice, while others went into nearby forest areas to seek out fruits, herbs or vegetables, or to hunt down animals.

Somkhit said it had been a punishing time for villagers and they rarely got a quiet moment due to the constant attacks.

“Some of the older generations who survived the war can still remember the suffering. They still hold a grudge against the US,” he said. “But the younger generations who can’t remember those days or weren’t around then hold no grudges. It was a long time ago, after all.”

A subterranean hospital

About 8 km from the seven main caves en route towards the border with Vietnam at Nameo lies the “Hospital Cave”. The entrance to this cave is hidden behind two heavy, iron doors and lots of thick foliage.
During the time of the Secret War, this cave was a hospital complete with operation theaters and 100 beds. Over 120 people worked on the wards during the war, including more than 15 doctors from Cuba, Laos, and Vietnam, along with 47 local nurses.

The cave is extremely wide, but is now in pitch darkness. Using a torch or candle, visitors can only see a huge deserted area, dominated by concrete. The floor is littered with reminders of the cave’s grim past, including used vials, ampoules and syringes. Eerily, it does manage to give the visitor an insight into the realities experienced by medical staff, struggling to save the lives of soldiers and civilians.

“Although this cave is not officially open to members of the public, visitors can request a special trip at the visitors’ center,” Somkhit said.

In 1973, a cease-fire was agreed upon and the bombing raids came to a halt. Two years later, the Lao communist movement took control of Lao politics and the country was officially renamed the Lao People’s Democratic Republic.

In 1976, three years after the end of the Secret War, a new hospital was built, so the Cave Hospital finally closed its doors. Although the new hospital was an elegant structure, it was subsequently left to deteriorate once a new building was established to house a hospital in the town of Sam Neua in 1988. But by 1995, some of the abandoned building, featuring yellow and purple painted walls and a red roof, were rehabilitated and it is now used as a local school.

The other 479 caves not yet open to the public largely remain in their original forms, and haven’t yet been explored. Some were used by the military, others as banks, a radio station, or a textile plant. Once these are explored, the site can only provide even deeper insights into life during this turbulent period of Lao history.

Next page: Find out about the latest developments on the Viengxay tourism agenda.

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