Since Theravada Buddhism is Thailand’s foremost religion, the country is home to literally tens of thousands of temples. Nevertheless, it’s not always necessarily very practical for worshipers to visit a temple due to their daily work commitments, or other factors relating to a busy, modern lifestyle.
With these points in mind, the Bangkok Metropolitan Administration (BMA), which is responsible for administering the city, launched a project about three years ago aimed at bringing dhamma – the Lord Buddha’s teachings – closer to the capital’s residents.
The great outdoors
The Dhamma in the Garden project has been organizing a two hour weekly religious ceremony and sermon in three of the capital’s best known parks – Vachirabenjatas Park (Chatuchak district), Benjasiri Park (Klongtoey district), and Thonburirom Park (Thung Kuru district) - on Sundays from 7 am-9 pm since December 2006. Vachirabenjatas Park is also known as Suan Rod Fai (‘Railway Park’).
As a resident of the Ngam Wong Wan area of Bangkok, I opted to pay a visit to Suan Rod Fai, the nearest of the three parks to my home.
It had been several years since I had woken up so early in the morning, and I was a little surprised to see so many people exercising in the park at 6.30 am on the weekend.
Shortly after arriving at the park, I spotted some yellow tents near the entrance that were serving as a venue for the organized religious activities. Although there wasn't a huge number of people around at that time, several others, who had been running or cycling, dropped by from time to time to pay their respects to a senior monk, who was sat at one corner of the venue. Inside the tents, a large number of mats had been placed on low wooden platforms to serve as a seating area for the monks and visitors, while three to four lines of chairs had been arranged towards the back of the tents for use by elderly worshipers. After a short time, a group of nine monks arrived and were invited to sit at a table where breakfast was being prepared. While the monks were eating, more visitors arrived at the venue and went to check out a booth selling religious publications. A lot of people also donated money at a ton kan thes (a 'tree made of hay') in a bid to ensure that this religious activity would be an enduring one. Once the monks had finished eating, the religious ceremony began with the recital of several prayers, one of which was the Five Precepts (a commitment to abstaining from killing, stealing, sexual misconduct, lying and intoxication). Although the five precepts already form part of daily practice among upasaka and upasika (male and female lay followers, respectively), traditionally they regularly recommit to these ideals.
In undertaking the five precepts, lay followers have to repeat five phrases in Pali (the language of the earliest Buddhist scriptures) after the monks. For example, P?????tip?t? verama????? sikkh?pada??? sam?diy?mi ('I undertake the training rule to abstain from taking life') and Adinn?d?n? verama????? sikkh?pada??? sam?diy?mi ('I undertake the training rule to abstain from taking what is not given').
At the end of the ceremony, one of the senior monks slowly walked around the venue, sprinkling holy water to wish lay followers good health and the best of luck. After that, most of those in attendance lined up in front of tables at the back of the tents, where monks would soon receive their alms and offerings. A special set of offerings
In
the meantime, those who had prepared sangkha than (a 'set' of
offerings, including foodstuffs, candles, medicines and other
necessities) presented them to the monks and the monks in return wished
them good luck.
People usually present monks with sangkhan than
on special occasions, such as a birthday, wedding anniversary or during
New Year. Some people also offer them to monks when they're
experiencing difficult times in the belief that doing so will improve
their luck.
While quite a large number of poor children from
the provinces live within the capital's temples, this allows them to
attend school and minimizes their day to day expenses. I prepared a set
of canned foods, juices and snack to offer the monks, which the monks
would subsequently share with those in need, including children living
in temples. I would estimate that there were about 150 people
participating in the Dhamma in the Garden activities taking place
during my visit to Suan Rod Fai, while about 40 people lines up during
this period to offer alms to the monks.
When offering alms, you
need to place your offerings in a monk's baat ('alms bowl'). It is
important not to touch the edge of the bowl, particularly if you're a
woman. In the absence of an alms bowl, a monk would place a piece of
yellow fabric in front of him and worshipers can then place their
offerings on this instead. Once all the laypersons in attendance had offered
their alms, one of the monks delivered a sermon. The BMA invites
particularly highly revered monks to deliver a sermon on various topics
every week. A large banner hanging at the entrance of the park informed
visitors of the topics covered and the names of the monks scheduled to
preach. Since this is prearranged well in advance, it's easy for
interested members of the public to pick out a topic of particular
interest.
I noticed listed on the schedule a reference to Phra
Maha Sompong Talaputto, who is well known for his ability to capture an
audience's attention by making the Lord Buddha's teachings fun and easy
to understand. Phra Maha Sompong Talaputto uses a lively speaking tone,
which tends to be far more engaging for most people than the rather
monotone sermons delivered by others.
Light refreshment
During
the sermon, a group of officials and volunteers help prepare and
distribute free water and snack among the participants. This is a
regular practice in temples across the country. When people visit a
temple, they often take a bowl of rice or other kind of food with them.
While some of the food may be offered to the monks, the remainder will
be shared and distributed among other visitors.
The Dhamma in
the Garden program operates every Sunday from 7 am until 9 pm. At Suan
Rod Fai, other special activities are organized by volunteers and
religious organizations on the last Sunday of the month (this does not
apply to the other venues listed).
Transport connections: Vachirabenjatas Park (Suan Rod Fai)
Suan Rod Fai is located in Chatuchak district near the offices of PTT and Chatuchak Park.
Bus:To
get close to the park, you can take regular (non air-conditioned) bus
No 3, 29, 34, 52, 69, 77, 134, or 187, or air-conditioned bus No 50 or
510.
Train:You can reach Chatuchak Park by taking the MRT subway to Chatuchak Park station. You can also take the BTS to Mo Chit station.
Benjasiri Park
Benjasiri Park is located in Klongtoey district, right next to The Emporium shopping center.
Bus:
To get close to the park, you can take regular (non air-conditioned)
bus No 2, 25, 38, 40, 49, or 98, or air-conditioned bus No 501, 508,
511, or Por Or Por 6.
Train: You can reach Benjasiri Park by taking the BTS skytrain to Phrom Phong station.
Thonburirom Park
Thonburirom
Park is located in Thung Kuru district near Krungthon 2 Hospital and
the Rama II branch of Central Department Store.
Bus: To get close to the park, you can take regular (non air-conditioned) bus No 75.
