Staff Writer Bordering the provinces of Houaphanh, Oudomxay, and Phongsaly to the north, Sayabouly to the south, Vientiane to the southwest, respectively, and Xiengkhouang to the east, Luang Prabang (or Louangphrabang) province is situated towards the center of northern Laos (Lao PDR)
The town of Luang Prabang is located on the Mekong River about 425 kilometers north of Vientiane. Formerly the capital of a kingdom of the same name during 1720-1946, it was also the Royal capital and seat of government of the Kingdom of Laos from 1947 until the communist takeover in 1975.
The city is notable as a United Nations' Educational, Scientific, and Cultural Organization (Unesco) World Heritage Site (1995).
The province has a total population of just over 400,000, which includes 12 distinct ethnic groups. The Khmu are the largest ethnic group, making up the majority (about 44%) of the population. They are a Mon-Khmer speaking people known for their knowledge of the forest, and they are believed to be the original inhabitants of Laos.
The Hmong are the second most populous ethnic minority (16%). Lowland Lao comprise 39% of the population and live mostly in lowland valleys and in the town of Luang Prabang.
The province has 11 districts: Luang Prabang, Xieng Ngeun, Nan, Pak Ou, Nambak, Ngoi, Pakxeng, Phonxay, Chomphet, Viengkham and Phounkhone.
State of flux
Archaeological evidence suggests that Luang Prabang has been inhabited since at least 8,000 BC. The first kingdom, Lane Xang, was founded in the 14th century by King Fa Ngum after he conquered and unified the lands of modern-day Xiengkhouang, the Khorat Plateau and Luang Prabang.
The city was first referred to as Muang Swa and by 1357 the name was again changed to Muang Xieng Dong Xieng Thong by local inhabitants. Shortly after, King Fa Ngum accepted a golden Buddha image known as Pha Bang as a gift from the Khmer monarchy and the thriving city-state became known as Luang Prabang.
Luang Prabang was the capital of Lane Xang until it moved to Vientiane in 1545 by King Setthathirath, although Luang Prabang remained the country's main religious center.
The city's first contact with western emissaries occurred during the middle of the 17th century during the reign of King Surigna Vongsa. Following the monarch's death in 1694, Lane Xang began to fall apart until it had completely broken down by 1707, breaking up into three separate kingdoms; Vientiane, Champasack and Luang Prabang.
The French first arrived in Luang Prabang in 1867. Later, the Haw from southern China sacked the town and practically burned it to the ground. This is the event that essentially forced the Lao to accept French protection. The French rebuilt the town, and managed to remain there for a hundred years before the Pathet Lao ended both French rule and the monarchy.
Luang Prabang is rich in cultural heritage, and is known as the seat of the nation's culture, featuring numerous monasteries, monuments, as well as sites of particularly impressive natural beauty.
Language note: Since the majority of ThaiAsiaToday.com's readership is Thai or Thailand-based, for the sake of practicality, I will refer to Wat, the word for temple in the Thai language in this article, rather than using Vat, the similar equivalent in Lao.
Regal links
The temple of Wat Xiengthong represents a masterpiece of classic local Buddhist architecture, featuring impressive golden facades and colorful murals.
This temple was used to organize the most important Royal ceremonies and houses the funeral vehicle of the former king. Built in 1560, Wat Xiengthong is also located close to several other temples of note, including Wat Wisunalat, Wat That Luang, Wat Mai and Wat Aham.
Luang Prabang’s oldest surviving temple, Wat Visounarath was constructed in 1503 by King Visounarath and rebuilt in 1898.
The temple’s carved wooden window railings are similar to those featured at the temple of Wat Phou in southern Laos. Inside you will find ancient statues and steles (‘stone tablet’) On the grounds is a stupa called Mak Mo (known as ‘the watermelon stupa’) – due to its shape.
Built in 1796 as Wat Mai Suwannaphummahan, gained its current name (Wat Mai means 'new temple') following a restoration in 1821, during the reign of King Manthathourat.
The four-tiered roof is of particular note at this temple, as well as depictions of daily life and the legend of Vessantara on the bas relief walls. The Vessantara jataka is the story of the penultimate life of the Lord Buddha, prior to his rebirth as Prince Siddartha.
Located across the Mekong to the
north of Ban Xieng Mene, Wat Chomphet is built atop a hill and offers
stunning view of the town and the river.
The temple was built in 1888, and although it is currently undergoing
renovation, the dragon and bird designs on the ceiling still retain a
strange, almost mystical feel.
Nature and adventure
The Tham Ting and Tham Phoum caves, also known as the Pak Ou Holy
Caves, are located within a steep rock face that rises from the Mekong
where it meets the Nam Ou River.
From the town of Luang Prabang, it is
possible to reach the site by car, tuk tuk, or via the Mekong River by
means of two boat journeys upstream.
The underground sanctuaries here have been venerated for centuries, housing literally thousands of Buddha statues.
During Bpee Mai ('New Year'), which is often referred to as Kut
Songkaan among Lao people, locals and foreign visitors typically travel
by boat or car to make merit at the caves.
Photo: John Fenech
Opposite the caves is a fishing village called Ban Pak Ou, where locals supply Luang Prabang's markets with fresh supplies.
On the way to the cave, you'll stop at Ban Sang Hai, where local residents produce local fermented rice liquor.
Head for heights
At the heart of Luang Prabang is Phusi Mountain. The summit offers a
marvelous view of the town and the surrounding countryside and is a
particularly impressive spot from which to enjoy sunset. It is also
home to a majestic stupa called That Chomsi.
It is also possible to visit Tat Khuangsi (the 'Kuang Si waterfalls'),
which are located in a thickly forested area about 29 km from the town
center. You can reach this spot by taking a minibus or tuk tuk from
Dala Market throughout the day.
Photo: John Fenech
The scenery here can be breathtaking,
featuring flowers and lots of fresh air, along with the chance to see
how local tribespeople go about their daily lives. Water tumbles over
multi-tiered limestone formations, finally providing several cool ponds
that offer the chance to swim or just relax and bathe. Plenty of snacks
and beverages are available here at reasonable prices.
Another option for those interested in the area's tribal roots is a
visit to the villages of Ban Long Lao and Ban Nong Heo, where groups of
Hmong and Lhmu people reside.
It takes about one hour to reach Ban Long Lao from Luang Prabang by car
or tuk tuk. If you are interested in taking a trek, it's possible to
follow a three hour trek from Ban Long Lao that ends at the Kuang Si
falls, or you can opt to take a longer (five-hour) trek from Ban Nong
Heo, which features a spectacular view over the valley and river. Ban
Nong Heo is located just 20 minutes from the provincial capital.
Arts and crafts
The village of Ban Chan is famous for its traditional pottery making,
and during a visit it is possible to see local artisans hand throwing
their work in the community's ovens. You can see numerous lamps and
pots produced by this village on the streets of Luang Prabang's old
town, as well as in other communities across northern Laos. Located in
Chompet district on the opposite side of the Mekong River towards the
south of the town.
You can reach Ban Chan by boat in 15 minutes, or take a boat to Xieng
Mene and then take a short walk (about 25 minutes in duration)
downstream.
If fabrics and textiles are of greater interest, head for Ban Phanom
(the 'weavers' village'), on the left bank of the Nam Khan River, just
2.5 km from Luang Prabang town. This Leu village was established 300
years, its Leu inhabitants having migrated from China's Yunnan province.
Producing an array of products, including traditional Lao sinh
('skirts'), textile wall hangings, items for babies and infants, along
with other forms of fabrics and textiles, this is the ideal place to
purchase hand-woven products.
