Fortunately the conditions for eating al fresco were near perfect when I recently visited Kupu Kupu Barong, an outdoor restaurant located off Ratchadapisek Road.
Kupu Kupu means butterfly and Barong means giant in the Bahasa (Indonesian) language. The restaurant’s décor, its use of Javanese earthenware, along with frangipani, gave the impression of a relaxing spa or rehab center rather than a restaurant.
The central area of the restaurant features some impressive ornamental fountains, while I noticed a subtle aroma of lemongrass in the air. It turned out this was wafting over from some incense sticks being burned nearby underneath some impressive frangipanis (Plumeria). In many parts of Asia, it is thought that lemongrass can keep away pesky mosquitoes, which are prone to ruining the experience of eating out under the stars!
A world of choice
Kupu Kupu Barong offers four different styles of food – Balinese, European, Thai, and Thai fusion. To cut to the chase, I opted to focus on the Thai and Thai fusion dishes having received a personal recommendation.
I started the meal with some tasty traditional Thai Tod Man Pla (Fishcakes) with peanut sauce. But my next choice of dishes fell within the ‘fusion’ category. The Prawn Satay featured large freshwater prawns marinated in a mix of both Thai and Indonesian herbs. Presented on skewers, this unique dish was simply heavenly.
The Kung Foo (Deep-Fried Shrimp) I had ordered earlier arrived next, and this dish, priced at 160 baht (US$5) was also impressive. Each bite was light and crispy, and the shrimp were accompanied by a very decent Somtam (Mango Salad). The texture of the deep-fried shrimp was just perfect, and they tasted pleasant even without the accompanying sauce.
 Quite a combination
The Green Bali (100 baht) was not, as you might have guessed, particularly Indonesian. In fact, its ‘fusion’ appeal is rooted in the cuisines of China and Thailand. Consisting of portions of shredded chicken, water chestnut, and mushroom wrapped in rice noodle, it comes topped with green chili sauce, hence the name of the dish. Usually sold as a starter, a small group of diners might like to share this dish. Personally, I found it to be simply sumptuous.
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‘Made in Asia’ steak
The Steak Bharata (300 baht) is a ‘fusion’ dish, inspired by steak as a food enjoyed internationally and Indian curry, in the form of a fairly sweet Massaman sauce. The tenderloin steak and sauce is served with crispy roti (a traditional Indian bread).
Kupu Kupu Barong’s ‘European’ menu offers a limited choice of classic international dishes, such as Lobster Bisque, Pork Knuckle, as well as pasta options. It should also be noted that there are only a handful of Indonesian dishes on offer. There’s also no dessert menu to speak of, although you can order ice cream.
There’s a wide range of alcoholic drinks available, including beers, whiskeys, a selection of cocktails and wines. And while the prices aren’t particularly competitive, the good news is that Kupu Kupu Barong doesn’t has no corkage charge, so it makes sense to take along a nice bottle of wine.
If you’re not a big fan of al fresco dining, you can always book a table in the restaurant’s private air-conditioned cottages, which also offer a great view of the surroundings.
It’s probably best to visit the restaurant on or around sunset, since the restaurant’s all lit up then, offering an impressive sight. You can also enjoy being entertained by professional jazz or pop bands from 7.30 pm onwards.
Kupu Kupu Barong is located at 111 Ratchadapisek 42, off Ratchadapisek Road in Bangkok’s Chatuchak district. For further information, or to make a reservation, contact Tel: +66 (0)2 513 5617.
Transport connections:
Car: Ratchadapisek 42 is about 100 meters past Ratchayothin intersection when driving towards Lat Phrao.
Once you reach the car park deep in the soi, you can hop on a golf cart, which will run you to the restaurant.
Train: The nearest MRT subway station is Lat Phrao.
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Go Eat, Go Out! 
Go Eat, Go Out!
The bars, clubs and restaurants of Thailand, and especially Bangkok, make the destination an excellent stopover - or even home base - for those who enjoy a wide variety of cuisine and a good night out of culture or clubbing. Get ideas and gain insights on dining (Go Eat!) and entertainment (Go Out!) in the kingdom.
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