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Hemlock's roots go deep

Youthapong Charoenpan

Hemlock restaurant offers a traditional, friendly feel, with intimate seating downstairs and an upstairs area that’s probably better suited to groups.

Hemlock tends to attract local student crowds, as well as a few travelers from nearby Khao Sarn Road.

Most of the dishes are fairly standard and very affordable. It’s a great place to try some Tom Yam Kung (Spicy Prawn Soup), which is a house special.

Simple but very tasty

The Kai Pad Med Mamuang Himmaparn (Chicken with Cashew Nuts) served up at Hemlock was superb. Traditionally, the ingredients are supposed to be cooked separately before a quick final deep fry. Hemlock’s chef manages to achieve the perfect texture, avoiding overcooking or undercooking the cashew nuts, chicken, chili (dried), and onion.

The Yum Woo-sen (Spicy Glass Noodles [Vermicelli]) salad with Minced Pork) was spicy hot, but certainly tolerable. The chef cooked the noodles to the ideal texture for Thai tastes – soft, but not overcooked. It’s important to get the noodle texture just right so it compliments the other ingredients.

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I set high standards when it comes to ordering Kaeng Kiaw Wan Nua (Beef Green Curry), but Hemlock delivered on this dish, providing a perfect mix of coconut milk, curry paste, and tender beef.

A common accompaniment in a Thai meal is Kai Jiaw, a Thai omelet. It’s a kind of ‘Ms Congeniality’ element within the dining experience.

Kai Jiaw’s main ingredients are fresh eggs, high-quality fish sauce, ground chili peppers, and vegetable oil. It tends to compliment several other dishes when introduced to a meal.

This basic dish is served simply with curries, spicy soup, or stir-fries. The Kai Jiaw served at Hemlock has a nice yellow color and features freshly chopped coriander.

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Hemlock?
And what a remarkable name it is!

“Historically hemlock is a poisonous herb that looks a lot like parsley. The term ‘drink a cup of hemlock’ means to accept your punishment even if it means you will die. In ancient Greece, Socrates was required to drink a cup of hemlock and did so …”

No sorry, stop there … but, hey, I have to admit that the name really grabbed my attention when I heard about this place almost ten years ago.

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Found guilty of refusing to recognize the gods, Socrates became one of the first martyrs to speak of his own free will. Just as Jesus went to the cross to fulfill his mission, Socrates chose hemlock to fulfill his. And Hemlock restaurant is hoping to continue to inspire, having satisfied Thai diners now for over 10 years. 

Success is no given, of course, but Khun Nat, a co-owner of the restaurant, spends as much time as she can at the restaurant, often enjoying a good time with her friends. 

Although the number of restaurants around Phra Arthit pier has grown rapidly, many have taken their cue from Hemlock. Prices are reasonable, and the area tends to attract a hip young crowd.

Hemlock Restaurant is located opposite the offices of the Food and Agricultural Organization (FAO) of the United Nations near Phra Arthit Pier. The restaurant is also used as an art space (a venue for art exhibitions).

It’s open from 4 pm to midnight Monday to Friday, and 5 pm until midnight on Saturdays. To make a reservation, call Tel: +66 (0)2 282 7507.

 


Transport connections:
Boat: Chao Phraya Express boats operating along the Chao Phraya River can drop you off near Phra Arthit pier.