Art & CultureThailand is home to a rich cultural heritage with distinct spiritual and art lineages. Gain insight into the ways of Thai culture passed down through the centuries in addition to its more modern variations through original Art & Culture articles.
The Hindu temple of Wat Sri Mariamman, known also locally by its official Thai name - Wat Phra Si Maha Umathewi - was built by Tamil immigrants to Siam in the 1860s.
The intricately detailed, multi-hued exterior is a truly unique sight, particularly given its location by Bangkok’s central Silom business district. The temple tends to attract fewer column inches of media coverage than other attractions that are arguably of less significance, although from a city resident’s perspective, it always seems to be a popular and busy place to visit.
Diplomatic quarter
Around the time the temple was built, the area from Sathorn Road to Si Phraya was home to the capital’s dignitaries and is where many foreign merchants built their ‘retreats’ in the Siamese capital. The area boasted numerous consulates, missionaries, and merchants of many nationalities, including people in their employ or under their jurisdiction.
Among the nationalities residing in the area, having developed settlements, were groups of Chinese, Indian, Lao and Mon migrants. These settlers made their living in Bangkok, gradually establishing their roots within the country.
On a recent trip to the temple, on a fairly typical midweek day, there was a reasonably even visitor split, comprising about 40% locals, mostly making merit, and 40% visitors from within the rest of Asia, including Chinese and Japanese tourists, as well as NRIs (Non-resident Indians), who again all shared a particular interest in the temple’s resonance as a spiritual hub.
Visitors from Australia, Europe, the Middle East, and North America also seemed fascinated by the temple’s colorful and incredibly intricate figurines, along with the rituals and ceremonies taking place inside the main temple area. Blessings and merit
It may certainly be possible to spot a Brahman priest during a visit to the temple, while this writer watched a priest’s aides mark devotees with a red mark on the forehead known within Indian Hindu communities as a kumkum (for women) or tilak (for men). A more detailed discussion on the actual meaning of these marks can be accessed here .
One of the reason monks apply them in India to help someone ‘overcome ego’ and some sources suggest that it is also why married women wear the red dot in Hindu culture.
After they give up their names by getting married, undergoing the pains of pregnancy and delivery, the child will grow up carrying his or her father’s family name.
Indians say this selfless sacrifice is done out of love and for the sake of family and society and for this reason wearing the red dot is considered to be a sign of Soubhagya (‘Good Fortune’). Since the mother carried out a sacred act, it is thought to be worthy of great fortune given that she had sacrificed her ego to perform such a selfless action.
Elsewhere in the partially open area surrounding the small centrally located main temple area, some Hong Kong Chinese visitors made merit by making offerings to Hindu deities on the outer perimeter of the compound.
Mother goddess
Mariamman is the main South Indian mother goddess, predominant in the rural states of Tamil Nadu, Karnataka and Andhra Pradesh. Thiis ancient village goddess is close to the goddesses Parvati and Durga within the Hindu religion and is synonymous with fertility and rainfall since mari means ‘rain’ in Hindi.
The goddess was typically a local deity connected to a specific geographical location, close to a specific tree or rock in a rural location. In Tamil, the mari means ‘change’ and so this word has also been strongly linked with the goddess.
Mari is usually portrayed as a beautiful young woman with a face of reddish hues, wearing a red dress. Sometimes she is portrayed with many arms, representing her many powers, but in most representations she has only two or four arms. Her usual attributes, which are featured in her portrayal are the trident or spear and the bowl, which are derived from stories told about her.
Mariamman was the smallpox goddess before the disease was eradicated in India. Now she is known for curing all so-called heat-based diseases like pox and rashes. During the summer months in South India (March to June), people walk miles carrying pots of water mixed with turmeric and neem leaves to ward off illnesses like the measles and chicken pox.
A reference to the temple on a local website certainly refers to its name as providing the possibility of providing some kind of assistance for eradicating heat-based diseases, such as pox or rashes. It is always a good idea to check on the verification of offers when related to healthcare to ensure they are not bogus or fraudulent.
Goddess Mariamman is revered and
worshiped widely among Tamil villagers across Sri Lanka and South
India, where she is regarded as having the power to bestow or remove
these life-threatening conditions. Despite Mariamman’s great popularity
to this day, the origins of her cult remain obscure.
There are nevertheless several other interesting items of a religious
note in and around a relatively small inner area of the temple if
you’re interested in Buddhism, the Hindu faith, or religion in general.
Close by the temple are plenty of stalls selling incense sticks,
brightly colored floral offerings and candles, while a handily located
7-11 store opposite offers easy access to more general day-to-day
necessities.
You needn’t worry about replenishing your camera batteries here should
they run low, though, since the temple adopts a very strict policy in
terms barring the taking of photos within the temple compound. This is
firmly enforced, although you can still get some reasonable shots from
the temple exterior. Transport connections: Train:
Located just a short walk from the BTS Chong Nongsri railway station on
the corner of Thanon Pan (‘Pan Street) and Silom Road, a visit to the
temple is easy to add to an itinerary involving Silom, Lumpini Park, or
even the Chao Phraya River since a return to the Skytrain station where
you disembark provides quick and easy access to the river-crossing
options at Saphan Taksin, the end of the line on this section of track.
Take Exit 3, where you will see Silom Road straight ahead of you. If
you’re a fan of speed over style, hop on a motorcycle from here and you
can be at the temple in a matter of minutes. Wave down a taxi and it’ll
cost you no more than 50 baht (less than US$2) to reach your
destination.
Please note that those who have time on their hands or would simply
like to enjoy and gentle stroll can still reach the temple on foot in
less than 10 minutes.
As with any religious site within the kingdom, please use common
courtesy when visiting such institutions, showing respect by removing
your shoes before entering.
Most religious sites in the kingdom would also probably prefer that
visitors dressed respectfully. Note that for men visiting the kingdom,
shorts are often deemed inappropriate attire when visiting a temple
site.
An alternative trip if looking to explore Thai-Indian culture within
Bangkok would be to take a stroll through Bangkok’s Little India, which
can learn more about right here .
South Asian eats
If Tandoori tickles your tastebuds at this point in time, you can always try nearby Indian restaurant Tandoor at Holiday Inn Silom, which we reviewed in greater detail recently here*. There are also several other budget-priced Indian restaurants in this neighborhood.
*Please note, that prices and deals mentioned in this article may have since been updated, so please first check by calling the telephone number contact provided with the article to avoid disappointment.
Art & Culture 
Art & Culture
Thailand is home to a rich cultural heritage with distinct spiritual and art lineages. Gain insight into the ways of Thai culture passed down through the centuries in addition to its more modern variations through original Art & Culture articles.
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