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Staff Writer

Located in the northern province of Phrae, the temple of Wat Phrathat Suthon Mongkon Khiri is a popular destination among Thais, who are impressed by not only its messages relating to Buddhist teachings, but also its interesting examples of Buddhist art.

Initially named Wat Phrathat Suthon Mongkon Khiri Sammakkhee Dham, the temple is located alongside a stretch of Highway 101, which runs from the center of town to Den Chai district. It is extremely popular among Thais, who are typically wowed by its aesthetic appeal.

Colorful creatures on guard
On entering the temple compound, visitors are greeted by a large reclining Buddha statue, which has a calm facial expression and is in perfect proportion.

Next to the reclining Buddha is a long stairway, which is guarded by a gold-colored tiger figure and a seven headed naga (a snakelike deity), which lies right along the length of the stairs. Once you reach the top of the stairs, three gates mark the entrance to actual temple area. Ordinary people can enter or leave through the outer gates on the left and right, while the central gate is reserved for members of the Royal family.
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Inspired by art
Ahead of the visit, I arranged an appointment with Phra Athikaan Montri (also known as Phra Kruba Montri Dhamma), who is the abbot of Wat Phrathat Suthon Mongkon Khiri. Phra Athikaan Montri has dedicated most of his life to creating beautiful Buddhist artwork for the temple, since he is both a great admirer of art, as well as being a skilled sculptor himself.

During the early part of his life, he visited numerous temples both in Thailand and abroad to study Buddhist art. In 1984, he was able to put his experiences to good use by establishing Wat Phrathat Suthon Mongkon Khiri. Not only did the abbot oversee the construction of each building on site, he also had a hand in the design and sculpture of many of the Buddhist works of art on display within the temple compound.

Phra Athikaan Montri said he hopes the beautiful examples of Buddhist art encourage people to learn more about Buddhist teachings.

“The temple is like a refuge for the mind - Lord Buddha's teachings can really help to calm a troubled mind,” he said.

A sense of balance
While the temple is often recognized for its impressive architecture, the main features have not been built to a huge scale, nor are they as elegant as some other famous temples. In fact the real beauty of Wat Phrathat Suthon Mongkon Khiri lies in its near-perfect balance of aesthetic symmetry with the teachings of the Lord Buddha hidden within many of its various features.

Probably the most impressive feature among the temple's architecture is the golden Phra Borom That Samsip Thas. The phrase Phra Borom That refers to a building in which the relics of the Lord Buddha are stored.

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Phra Athikaan Montri said that Phra Borom That Samsip is basically a reproduction of another temple called Wat Phra That Nor, which is located in a geographical area known as Sipsong Pa Na (12,000 rice fields). The building features eight angles, representing the Noble Eightfold Path, one of the Lord Buddha's principle teachings. The three story building featured in the original design was chosen to represent earth, heaven and hell.

Inside the main ubosot ('ordination hall'), you'll find artistic reproductions from over 10 Lanna-style temples, including representations of Buddha images, mural paintings and local folklore.

While many examples of the art on display at the temple are simply reproductions of art works found in other temples, they have certainly been well organized and seem to follow logically with each appropriate historical period. Meanwhile, the giants that stand guard outside the ordination hall are certainly not copies since they were personally designed by the abbot.

The first giant is referred to as the Awakening Giant. This figure has a vary serious facial expression. The other giant is know as the Sleeping Giant, and in this case it is happily sleeping away. The abbot explains that the Sleeping Giant basically represents lazy people, who won't be able to conduct their work properly due to their inaction, while the Awakening Giant represents those folks who can carry out their work well, while being careful to avoid any form of negligence.

Other 'must see' attractions at the temple include the museum, a reproduction of Phra That Phanom, the Phra Maha Miamunee Pavilion, a bell tower – which is basically a reproduction of the one at Wat Phra That Hariphunchai in Lamphun province – along with Ho Trai, which is a reproduction of a scripture library in Wat Phra Singh in Chiang Mai province.
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The temple opens on a daily basis during 9 am-4 pm. For further information, contact Tel: +66 (0)53 530 138. - Translated into English and republished with the kind permission of ASTV Manager Online.

Transport connections:

Car: Wat Phra That Suthon Mongkon Khiri is located at Mo 5 in Phrae province's Den Chai district. The temple is situated along Highway 101 (Den Chai-Lampang province) and is some five kilometers away from the Den Chai intersection near Phraya Chaiyaboon military camp.