As a traditional pipat (Thai classical) ensemble fills the air with its hypnotic sounds, a male performer of likay (a popular form of Thai theater) gleams under the lights on stage. His brightly-decorated costume, glittering with embroidered crystals, attracts everyone’s attention, as does his vivid make-up.
The performer sings as he elegantly dances and gestures along to the rhythm and music. An announcer says the performance set to begin is a tale of a prince who made a long, perilous journey to find the love of his life.
More men and women join in the performance, each with a role to play. Their sweet singing voices are carried afar thanks to the use of a powerful sound system.
The three-hour performance takes the audience through a rollercoaster of emotion, covering deceit, grievances, hate, jealousy, joy, and love. The show comes to a close around midnight, when performers quickly head for their beds since they need to rest to prepare again the next day for another performance.
Thongkluem Sermsilpa, 76, is head of his own troupe (the Thongkluem Sermsilpa Likay Troupe), based in Koongpayom subdistrict within Ratchburi province’s Banpong district. He says that during the months of February, March, and April, likay performances are usually held every night.
Talent pool
So the spirit of likay in Banpong district seems assured, having grown steadily in popularity over the last century. The district is widely known for its large number of likay troupes, and the high quality of entertainment they provide.
Thongkluem, who first got involved in likay at the age of 15, said the village would be busy since troupe members need to practice and prepare for the shows. Peak season for likay does not only mean a boon for actors and performers, but also for related roles, such as costume makers and repairers, musicians, and stage crew.
A new lease of life
Likay is derived from the chanting of Islamic lyrics, praising God.
Early in the twentieth century (about 1910), likay had developed into an important aspect of traditional Thai folk culture, according to Thapanan Tansakul.
Thapanan recently conducted some research into likay’s historical importance through to the present day, with a focus on Banpong district, as part of his graduate studies at Nakhon
Pathom’s Rajabhat University.
Likay’s use of vernacular has seen its popularity grow over the years to the point where it’s a popular night-time entertainment in provinces across the country.
Thapanan said that during the 1960s, likay experienced a brief decline in popularity since the public were drawn towards music performed on stringed instruments. This had provided a lesson for likay performers, however, who then understood that amid changing trends, it’s important to adapt in order to be able to survive.
Developments have taken place in line with greater materialism and modernity within Thai society, and they these changes have had an impact on costumes, music, performance techniques, repertoires, and the stage itself.
We’ll now examine recent developments in likay in greater depth.
Music: Traditional musicians are still required during a performance, but string bands have become more popular since they are thought to add a bit more color to a likay performance.
It’s also quite popular these days to have an opening “mini concert” to warm up the crowd before a performance begins, as well as to entertain crowds during intermissions. Many likay performers are also able to sing and dance along with more modern songs.
On stage: In the past, a likay stage was a simple set up, basically made up of a raised platform. But these days, they have become much more complex, including movable screens featuring various landscapes, adjustable platforms, as well as more complex lighting to better highlight important parts of the story.
Special effects, such as lightning crashes, explosions, and the use of fake blood only add to the excitement in the audience.
Costumes: Lead characters still tend to wear carefully-embroidered costumes. Women tend to wear long dresses, while the men wear traditional knee-length pants.
Characters from the lower classes, however, such as farmers, are dressed in plainer clothes.
Repetoires and performances: Many repertoires continue to be based on popular folk tales, myths, and history. However, in light of the popularity of soap operas among local audiences, likay performers now often present parallel themes that keep things up to date and delight the audiences.
An interesting modern development in likay is how multiple performers can be responsible for looking after a single character.
Three to five performers may be responsible for a single lead character, for example, each taking over the role step by step as the story unfolds.
This situation has led to the number of performers in a likay troupe growing from 15 to 17 in the past, to anything from 20 to 30 at present.
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A youthful flavor
Another important aspect of likay is that it uses child performers. Often the children of adult performers, some child performers start taking part in likay when they are as young as four years old. They clearly learn from their elders, and their involvement adds an added interest to a performance, particularly during intermissions.
A popular career move
Thongkluem, whose likay troupe is one of five in Moo 3 of Koongpayom, says there are probably more than a hundred people in the village involved in likay.
“Every household in this neighborhood has at least one or two likay performers,” he said. “And they’re all my former pupils.”
Having gained knowledge and experience through learning from Thongkluem, several have gone on to found their own troupes in and around the village.
Likay is a popular choice among young adults since it’s a career in which you can make a living, Thongkluem said.
“It can provide good examples for young people, particularly those who are not academically gifted. By getting involved in likay, it is at least keeping their away from more worrying habits, such a drinking [alcohol] or drugs.” Thongkluem said.
It is also possible, Thongkluem said, to earn some reasonable money from likay. Performers can earn anything from 400 to 500 baht (US$12.70-15.80) per performance, while experienced performers could even earn a few hundred baht more than this.
However, there is another stream of revenue from likay, which is generated by the garlands presented to performers during a show.
This could be anything from a few hundred baht to tens of thousands, depending on the popularity of the entertainer and the generosity of the dedicated fans, known as maeyok.
 That’s entertainment
Thapanan said that venues hosting a likay performance and the audience pay important roles in directing the shows.
Hosts are able to request that a particular scene be carried out in a particular way so they can have a direct influence on the outcome.
Thais often host a likay performance to mark a special occasion or in line with other popular events, such as birthdays, cremations, or ordination. Organizers of temple fairs almost always feature likay as a significant attraction to their events.
According to Thongkluem, his troupe usually gets paid anything from 28,000 to 50,000 baht ($888-1,586) per performance. Variables may be related to the distances the performers have to travel, as well as the magnificence of the stage setting. A likay performance usually lasts for about three hours.
Thapanan suggests Thongkluem’s rates are about average and in line with other high-quality likay troupes across the country. However, he says that some troupes boasting particularly hi-tech technologies were able to command up to 100,000-160,000 baht.
The future development of likay is likely to focus on a search for new presentation techniques, as well as the use of the latest technologies, Thapanan said.
“Likay isn’t dead and it will never die in Thai society so long as troupes continue to adapt to current and upcoming trends,” he said.
Photos: Thapanan Tansakul |
Art & Culture 
Art & Culture
Thailand is home to a rich cultural heritage with distinct spiritual and art lineages. Gain insight into the ways of Thai culture passed down through the centuries in addition to its more modern variations through original Art & Culture articles.
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