It’s not unusual to see genuine examples of antique Sukhothai Sangkhalok earthenware and pottery for sale in antique stores priced at tens of thousands of baht (several hundred dollars) or more. However, a group of villagers residing close to the site of a traditional kiln are now producing a new generation of cute items in the same style at affordable prices, as well as keeping an important cultural tradition alive.
Steeped in tradition
Items of Sangkhalok pottery displayed in museums in the kingdom go back as far as the 10th and 11th centuries.
About 600 years ago, Sangkhalok pottery produced in Sukhothai province had already gained an impressive reputation within Asia. Examples had reached Cambodia, Laos, and Vietnam, and even Japan by this time. Its impressive reputation was based on quality and the use of unique designs.
The area’s antique earthenware is original in the sense that Sukhothai boasts a unique kind of clay, which compliments the attractive green-colored celadon or brown glazing often used to decorate the various pieces. However, there are also plenty of examples of unglazed Sukhothai Sangkhalok.
Among the items originally produced were: animal figurines; architectural features; bowls; decorative items; human figurines; jars; plates; pots; tea cups; and vases. The same kind of items are now being produced by villagers living close to the Education and Presentation of Sangkhalok Kiln Center, the site of a historic kiln in Ban Kohnoi located in Mueang district’s Si Satchanalai, about 67 kilometers north of the city of Sukhothai.
Adding value
While an archaeological display highlights the ancient kilns unearthed at the site, local villagers can sell their hand-crafted pottery nearby. This actually enhances the overall learning experience, and provides a good deal of convenience for shoppers or tourists visiting the center.
Many items for sale are actually copies of some of the more interesting artifacts dug up during archaeological excavations at the site, which are on display at the center and local museums.
Among the more interesting products for sale are celadon plates, vases and other kinds of pottery of varying shapes and sizes, Buddha images, as well as depictions of the Naga, a serpent-like supernatural being with human and
snake attributes. Prices start from just a few hundred baht to several thousand baht.
Locals have also reproduced tiny vases and dolls in the shape of people or animals. These miniatures are extremely popular among visitors as they are easy for tourists to take back home with them. Prices start at just 10 baht.
The handicrafts produced by the villages can rake them in an extra income of up to 4,000-6,000 baht (US$125-190) per month. The villagers tend to be farmers, so they focus on production when they have finished their regular work.
Fifty-year-old Lamai Sudsai began getting involved about 10 years ago once the site had first been developed to welcome tourists.
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Australian and Thai archaeologists who had been involved in developing the site first introduced the idea to villagers, Lamai said. The work initially came about as part of a preservation plan to link the historical remains with modern-day livelihoods in the community.
Lamai has become a dab hand at producing the miniatures described earlier. He produces miniature chicken, elephants, mice, pigs, as well as kangaroos. The latter are made to order for export to Australia.
Lamai says her husband is responsible for getting clay from a special source located close to the village. He then works his hands through the clay to remove unwanted objects before working the clay with his feet, then hands, to ensure it meets the desired quality.
After carefully crafting the clay to shape it into a miniature, Lamai cooks the clay at 1,300°C in the village’s communal kiln for up to 21 hours. The finished products are then left to cool for another two days.
While the communal kiln is modern, some of the original ancient methods have been maintained. Built by the district administration, villages are entitled to use the kiln as long as they pay a small fee and for their own gas.
Lamai told us that she really enjoyed producing the pottery since it helped her to make some money and meant that she didn’t need to look for a job in the city.
 Transport connections:
Car: The most direct way to drive to Sukhothai is to head north on Highway 32 until you reach Nakhon Sawan. From Nakhon Sawan take Highway 117, which will take you to Phitsanulok. From there get on to Highway 12, which after a short journey will take you into Sukhothai.
Train: There are no trains direct to Sukhothai, although you could take a six-and-a-half hour train ride to Phitsanulok and take a bus from there to Sukhothai. For further information, contact State Railway of Thailand (SRT) on +66 (0)2 220 4444. The bus journey from Phitsanulok to Sukhothai takes about an hour.
Bus: Buses direct to Sukhothai leave Bangkok’s northern bus terminal at Morchit. The journey takes about eight hours.
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